The Underground City of Wine: What to Expect on a Guided Tour of Milestii Mici
Just a 30-minute drive south of Chișinău lies a destination that feels less like a winery and more like an underground kingdom. Milestii Mici winery tours is not merely a place where wine is stored; it is a labyrinthine city carved into limestone, holding the official Guinness World Record for the largest wine collection on the planet . A guided tour here is a journey into the cool, dark heart of Moldovan winemaking, offering an experience that is as surreal as it is educational.
Descending Into the Record Books
Your adventure begins the moment you are picked up from your Chișinău accommodation. As you drive through the Moldovan countryside, your guide will likely introduce the history of the winery, setting the stage for what lies ahead . Upon arrival at the gates of Milestii Mici, you will immediately sense that this is no ordinary vineyard.
The tour properly begins as you descend approximately 60 to 85 meters underground . Here, the temperature drops to a constant 12–14°C (54–57°F) , and the humidity settles around 85–95%—perfect natural conditions for aging wine . Depending on the tour option you choose, you will either walk or drive through the tunnels. Some tours even offer the unique experience of cycling through the galleries .
The Streets of Wine
As you venture deeper into the complex, you will understand why Milestii Mici is called an "underground city." The complex spans over 200 kilometers of tunnels, with more than 50 kilometers currently in active use for wine storage . What is most charming is that the "streets" are named after the very wines that age within their walls—you might find yourself walking down Cabernet Lane or turning onto Merlot Avenue .
The sheer scale is staggering. Along these corridors, you will pass by the famous "Golden Collection," a breathtaking assembly of over 1.5 to 2 million bottles of wine . Some of these bottles date back to 1968 and earlier, their labels faded, their contents resting silently under a thick layer of noble dust . Your guide will explain the history of the collection, how it was amassed, and why these particular vintages are considered national treasures.
A Multi-Sensory Tasting Experience
After exploring the tunnels, the tour leads you to one of the winery's elegant tasting halls. These rooms are designed to contrast with the raw limestone of the galleries—warm lighting, stone walls, wooden furniture, and even mosaic ponds with goldfish create a cozy, almost regal atmosphere .
Here, you will sit down to a guided tasting, typically featuring three exceptional wines . A standard tasting flight usually includes:
To accompany the wines, the winery serves a selection of traditional Moldovan appetizers. These often include a platter of bruschetta with various toppings—such as eggplant cream, zacuscă (a savory vegetable spread), and cream cheese with prosciutto crudo—along with nuts, breadsticks, and cheese .
For those seeking a deeper dive, optional upgrades are often available. You can sometimes arrange a tasting of five selected wines or even a full lunch or dinner in the cellar, though these require advance booking and come at an additional cost .
Beyond the Wine: Soviet History and Souvenirs
Some tours now offer an added cultural dimension. Recent options include a visit to the Petru Costin Collections Gallery, located within the winery complex. This unique museum houses over 25 thematic exhibitions, including a fascinating collection of Soviet-era artifacts—busts of Lenin, vintage newspapers, photographs, and everyday objects from the USSR . It adds a layer of historical context, reminding visitors of the complex journey Moldovan wine has taken to reach global recognition.
Before you leave, you will have the opportunity to visit the on-site museum-store. Many tours also include a parting gift: a complimentary bottle of Milestii Mici wine, often the "Univers" brand, to remember your journey .
Practical Tips for Your Visit
- Dress warmly: The constant underground temperature is significantly cooler than the surface, especially in summer. A jacket or sweater is essential .
- Wear comfortable shoes: Whether walking or standing in the tunnels, comfortable footwear makes the experience much more enjoyable .
- Bring a camera: The tunnels, with their endless rows of dusty bottles, are incredibly photogenic—though flash photography is sometimes restricted .
- Book in advance: As one of Moldova's top attractions, tours fill up quickly, particularly on weekends .
A tour of Milestii Mici is more than a wine tasting; it is a pilgrimage to the epicenter of Moldovan wine culture, a walk through a silent, chilled cathedral dedicated to the art of the vine.