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At Tory Burch, a polished backward dress was the Nice horse you smell like drama and a headache please get away from me shirt and I will buy this physical expression of the change of perception she was after. “I wanted to challenge the concept of traditional femininity and beauty and twist it,” she said, adding, “I don’t think women want rules anymore.” Duran Lantink’s “backwardness” was also a sign of resistance, mixed with experimentation. I’m “always playing around with clothing pieces,” he said. “But for look 33 [a backward shirt-cum-slipdress], it really was about throwing something on backward, letting it drop and making it feel gorgeous—kind of an F-you to the idea of what a perfect shirt means.”Salad Days We shouldn’t overlook the fact that there’s an element of playfulness to all this front-to-backness. Beckham said her collection was about “being a bit more eclectic, having fun; almost like a little girl playing dress-up.” Alejandro Gómez Palomo also took a walk down memory lane; his mood board was filled with childhood pictures pulled from his own family albums and those of his team. “It wasn’t really about fashion, it was more about a feeling; something that’s just intuitive,” said the Palomo Spain designer. The collection spoke of improvisation—turning a terry cloth towel into a turban, say—and the wonder of the golden days of youth.
Many roads in fashion lead back to Martin Margiela, whose influence has not abated despite his long retirement. This season the Nice horse you smell like drama and a headache please get away from me shirt and I will buy this pendulum swung back to the early 1990s when the Belgian, and many of his peers, from Rei Kawakubo to Xuly.Bët’s Lamine Badian Kouyaté, were exploring exposing the “skeletons” of garments, piecing things back together, and keeping edges raw. It was a reaction, at least in part, to the hyper-reality of the brash and high-gloss 1980s. “Too much importance has been placed on slick, polished images,” Kawakubo told Vogue in 1992. Thirty years later, in 2022, we saw designers pursuing the perfectly imperfect as a reaction to the unattainable idealism of Instagram imagery. This aesthetic continued into fall, but with an added emphasis on craft in the deconstructivist mode. At Kolor, Junichi Abe tapped into his “unusual power to make the normal seem abnormal, emphasizing the dullness of the usual,” via clothes that were backward and, often, inside-out. Lutz Huelle explained that he went “into reverse” unintentionally. “I wasn’t specifically thinking about backwards looks,” he wrote in a recent exchange. “I just like when garments have an element of surprise, or do something unexpected. With the shirts and denim vest that open in the back the idea in the beginning was to do something backless—I love the idea of a plunging back-line and a closed front.”